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Formal

Suit Shoulder Construction and Options

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What happens when you put on a suit? You stand taller, walk with confidence, and look people in the eye. You feel incredible because you know you look great. A suit can transform your presence. Finding a suit off-the-rack that fits you perfectly is next to impossible. Some degree of tailoring will be required. However, one of the key structural components that rarely gets altered is the shoulder, and Aaron Marino takes some time to discuss this part of the suit jacket.

Natural Shoulder

Suit jackets are changing with cuts and structure. A growing trend is the natural shoulder. The padding is being removed for a natural and contoured look. It fits more like a shirt than a jacket and is more casual. Alpha has tried natural shoulder jackets but is not fond of them. He develops a pucker because the shoulder pad is missing.

Light Shoulder

A more structured jacket is a lightly padded shoulder. It still gives a natural silhouette but has some padding for added structure that Alpha thinks is needed. The issue is that once in awhile a pucker may occur in the shoulder. The reason for the pucker is that the large pad doesn't create a rigid right angle. If this bothers you, go for the next option.

Structured Shoulder

Structured shoulder is the most common option for off-the-rack suits. It gives a mores structured and angular look. The look not as sloped and rounded. The indentation / divot doesn't exist because shoulder pad is as wide as the shoulder at its widest. One problem is wearing a structured jacket that doesn't fit. Alpha presents an example. Also pay attention to how it lays on your shoulder. Alpha gives an example of good and bad.


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