Wool Neckties | Men's Ties

February 5, 2013
Cold winter temperatures are the perfect time to show off those fabulous, understated wool neckties that add class and dimension to every outfit they’re worn with. Worn primarily in autumn and winter because of the fabric’s warmth, wool ties have been gracing the necks of men for years. A recent surge in popularity has brought the wool tie to fashion’s forefront once again and for good reason.

Wool neckties, regardless of the style, are typically made from the fleece of sheep and goats; however some other interesting wool producing critters, like camels and alpacas, have been known to share their goods on our behalf, also. Don’t be fooled into thinking these neckties are itchy or scratchy just because they’re made from wool, since modern manufacturing techniques can produce some very comfortable and evolved fabrics.

Fabric quality and characteristics vary depending on which breed of animal the wool comes from, like Merino Sheep or Cashmere Goats. Each possesses noticeable uniqueness and personality that distinguishes them apart; offering men many options and choices. Most wool ties, even the heavier knitted ones, possess a softness that’s based not only on the type wool used, but the fabric’s manufacturing process, as well. In addition to pure wool ties are wool blends, where other fabrics, like silk and cotton, are added for texture, feel, and functionality. Regardless, I’ve never met a wool tie that didn’t feel and look great, whether it was a blend or not.

Wool ties, no matter how they’re manufactured, are going to possess the qualities of wool to some extent. Wool, a sheep’s natural insulation from the cold, insulates us in much the same way; consequently limiting the use of wool neckties during warm weather. Lanolin, the waxy substance that coats wool fibers and makes them waterproof in order for the sheep to be protected from rain and wet weather, actually benefits the wool necktie by making it somewhat water resistant to minor spills. However, this doesn’t mean they can be washed, since water and agitation will distort, shrink, and cause wool to felt or mat. Additionally, wet wool fibers lose strength, which allows them to permanently stretch and misshapen if mishandled. Direct heat is most damaging to wool, so never iron a wool tie, either. Play it safe by always having wool neckties, pure or blended, dry cleaned, which will preserve their integrity and keep them looking new… however, don’t over dry clean these ties because the wool will eventually become brittle. Treated with care, wool neckties are very durable and should last for years.

England, Italy, and the US produce some of the world’s most notorious wool neckties. Prices vary according to brand and design, and expect to pay anywhere from $15.00 to $200.00 + for a high-end wool tie, especially if it’s handmade. Style and pattern have some bearing on price, also, so do your research before you purchase.

There are two basic styles of wool neckties: knitted and woven. Each with their own set of characteristics; knitteds are normally more casual than wovens, due to their coarser texture and limited patterns. Made from lightweight yarn that is either wool, cashmere, or a blend of both, knitted neckties drape very well, and seem to have a spring or bounce to their movement. Since these ties are soft, pliable, and somewhat stretchy, they lack the overall fullness other ties have, particularly in the knot. Colors are typically solid and patterns striped, due to the difficulty in producing complicated designs with this type fabric. As a result, between style and color, these ties look best with more casual clothing, especially those with texture, like corduroy, flannel, and tweed. Perhaps the perfect casual tie, knitted wool neckties look great with more rustic outfits and earthy colors.

Woven wool ties are pretty classy. Made with finer gauge wool than the knitted tie, the woven tie is more formal and works well with dressy outfits, including suits. The sky’s the limit when it comes to colors and patterns, yet these ties don’t typically have much of sheen, if any at all. The flat finish suggests these ties go best with suits and jackets of similar finishes, and not very dressy ones that would call for a dressier, shinier tie. Woven wool ties drape beautifully, are fuller, and are more capable of retaining a pronounced knot than the knitted variety. Basically, the finer the yarn, the more formal the tie, and the better the drape will be.

Wool neckties aren’t for everyone. But if you’re looking to mix it up by adding understated elegance to cool weather outfits, try a textured woolen tie. They’re suitable for most arenas, from office to dinner date, with one thing to keep in mind: textured fabrics often present a pattern. Keep this in mind when coordinating wool ties with textured jackets and sweaters, since it’s best not to overdo the busyness of an outfit. Other than that rule, enjoy this great accessory that has the ability to transform the typical into the extraordinaire!

by Aaron Marino

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